Canon 2562A014AA Reviews, Compare, Prices
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Canon 2562A014AA Reviews, Compare, Prices.
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I bought this lens four years ago and have shot around 6,000 photos with it (4000 digital, 2000 35mm) . Autofocus is very mercurial and collected, which is typical of the Canon USM lenses. I would not recommend a Canon lens that does not have the ultrasonic motor (USM) focusing. Optics are absorbing throughout the focusing range.
The lens is fairly heavy and after a few months of utilize, you will likely rep that the weight of the glass is enough to earn the lens telescope out when it's around your neck. If you want a compact lens that will let you win gigantic pictures in a wide range of settings, this is probably the best lens you could find for a Canon camera. If you're a pro, you'll probably have a backpack fat of lenses and you're not reading this anyway, so I'm not talking to you. If you want something you can sling over your shoulder and not mediate about when you bewitch the kids to Disney World, collect a cheaper, lighter lens.
The Image Stabilizer (IS) makes the lens a lot more expensive (some lenses are offered with and without it), so you should know what you're paying for. Some notes about the Image Stabilizer:
- The image stabilizer itself is basically a spinning lens element (fragment of glass) that acts as a gyroscope. When the lens moves slightly, such as camera shake caused by your pulse, the gyroscopic element stays build while the other elements fade. Because the gyroscopic element is no longer in line with the other elements, it effectively bends the light objective enough to compensate for the lens though-provoking.
- Having the IS feature does not mean that you can hold crisp photos with a 1/20 sec exposure while jumping on a trampoline. What it means is that you can often win away with not carrying a tripod in normal lighting, and in grievous light when your photos would be very blurry (assuming you're not using really snappy film), the IS will get the images significantly less blurry. An positive corollary is that you can avoid using a flash in many situations when a flash is undesirable or prohibited.
- The rule of thumb to earn crisp photos without image stabilization is that your shutter race should not be longer than 1 over your focal length. So if you are taking a characterize zoomed in at 135mm, your shutter rush needs to be 1/135 sec or faster, and since no camera I know of has a 1/135 setting, that means going up to 1/160 sec (on cameras with stops in 1/3 increments) or faster. The image stabilizer means that you can go 2 f-stops slower than you normally could using the rule I impartial explained. So if you're shooting at 135mm and you have the IS switched on, you can shoot at 1/40 sec instead of 1/160 sec. That means four times as considerable light goes past the shutter, or that you can bag the same quality results with 1/4 of the ambient light you would normally need.
- There are some times when you SHOULD NOT employ the IS feature. You should definitely not exhaust it if you are in a car, on a roller coaster, if you are walking, or in any other location where the camera is absorbing or vibrating a lot. You will fetch blurrier than normal images because the gyroscopic element is constantly spicy all over the area, trying to prevent the image from absorbing. Only have IS switched on when you are using the camera in a normal, stationary, handheld manner. You should also not spend IS when you are using a tripod, or when you have the camera resting on a vibration-less surface for an image. The reason is that the gyroscopic element will be spinning even though it's not needed, and while this isn't really unpleasant, the motion could decrease photo quality (I've never noticed this, but this is what Canon claims), and it is unnecessarily using battery power.
- Finally, not all of Canon's IS lenses consume the same IS technology; many of the more expensive and newer lenses are better, but it was hard enough for me to approach up with what this lens cost--it'll be awhile before I can rationalize three times as remarkable for an upgrade.
One last impress about third-party lenses, in case you're thinking about it. I know the ticket may be compelling but there genuinely does seem to be major quality differences, and while all Canon EOS lenses work will all Canon EOS cameras, no matter how many years apart they are in gain, it has happened several times that even the best of the third party lenses (Sigma, some others) do not function properly with novel Canon cameras. I happily assume knock-offs with other things, but not with lenses, flashes, or other camera components that actually communicate with my camera.
While I considered purchasing a Canon 10D, I also started looking for a agreeable first lens. Most of the reviewers and Canonites on the various forums suggested this lens as a beneficial starting point.
The 28-135mm IS USM Zoom is the one I exercise all the time now on the Canon 10D, and that will be the case until I catch over the sticker shock of the 10D/28--135mm combo and launch adding other lenses to my kit.
In the meantime, this lens gets the job done very well. It gives you favorable range for a variety of of shots, from portraits to telephotos. There is even a macro mode, which gives you the opportunity to do close-ups--not really a fair macro, but okay for shots of flowers, your kitty cat's face, etc. It is the flexibility of this lens that makes it so though-provoking if all you have is impartial one lens. And remember that if you mount this lens on a digital camera, like the 10D, the range is actually extended by a factor of 1.6.
The USM focuses fleet, and the Image Stabilization (IS) really works. In fact, I've been defective by it, and IS is now a must for any of the longer lenses I might occupy in the future.
The IS system "locks" on target so that camera shake is eliminated or at least seriously minimized. This means fewer shots ruined by camera shake, and the IS system allows the user to shoot handheld at slower shutter speeds. This isn't honest advertising hype. It works.
The image quality is quite grand. I pick up salubrious color saturation, inequity, and sharpness. After tweaking some shots in Photoshop, I was able to turn out some top-notch 13x19 poke prints.
As others have pointed out, if you are unbiased starting out with a Canon DSLR or SLR and want one genuine general purpose lens, this is it.
As of August 2008 I have sold this lens because I have moved on to Canon "L" glass, but the EF 28-135 is composed a mountainous lens to inaugurate with if you are fair beginning to learn photography.
Dollar-for-dollar, this is the best consumer-grade Canon lens available. The focal-length makes it a ample walk-around lens. The onboard Image Stabilization allow for crisp zoom shots without a tripod. If your hands shake a lot, this lens will serve overcome that.
On the flip side, I found the Macro option provides a really startling level of detail up cessation. I also found the combination of the f3.5 and Image Stabilization to be of tall consume in low-light, indoor shooting where flash is prohibited. It's a fairly fast-focusing lens, too.
Even though I have upgraded to an L-series lens, the 28-135 is aloof a personal well-liked. Considering it is 1/3 the trace of an L-series lens, I cannot accumulate a single fault with it. Anyone looking for a general-purpose lens for under $500 to compliment their Canon Digital Rebel, Rebel XT, 10D or 20D has found it here.
